We all have way more keys then we want. One to the front door, one to the back door, one to work, one to our car, one to our husbands’ car, one to our gym locker… not to mention those keys you keep for your friends and family in case they get locked out. Add some pretty to your big pile of keys as a little reminder that life is good!

Instructions:

Step 1. Use your nipper tool to cut the loop off the top of your cross charm. Then, cover the back of your charm with GS hypo cement. Wait about 30 seconds for it to become tacky, then place it in the center of your labradorite pendant. Set it aside to dry.

Step 2. On one headpin string beads following this pattern: 3 small bicones, 1 large bicone, 1 small bicone, 1 large bicone and 1 small bicone.
On another headpin, string: 1 small bicone, 1 rectangle lampwork bead, 1 small bicone, 1 lampwork disc bead, 1 small bicone, 1 square lampwork bead and 1 small bicone.
On another headpin, string: 1 small bicone, 1 large bicone, 3 small bicones and 1 large bicone.On another headpin, string: 1 large bicone, 1 square lampwork bead, 1 small bicone, 1 rectangle lampwork bead, 1 small bicone and 1 lampwork disc bead.

Step 3. For your 2 headpins with just crystal and no lampwork, use your pliers to wire wrap them directly onto the loop below the clip attached to the keyring. For your other two headpins, wire wrap them to a jump ring and then attach the jump ring to the loop below the clip.

Step 4. When the cement holding your charm to your pendant is dry enough that it won’t slip if you move it (you can do this after about 15 minutes if you’re very careful not to touch it), place your pendant on a headpin. Wire wrap the headpin to a jump ring and attach the jump ring to the loop underneath the clip. When the glue dries after about an hour, you’re good to go!

Materials and Tools Needed:

Labradorite Faceted Free Form Pendant, 26 x 36mm (1)
Silver Plated Open Cross Charm with Swirls, 14 x 20mm (1)
Clip Key Ring, 28 x 65mm(1)
Lampwork Rectangle Bead, Green/Brown, 12 x 15mm (2)
Lampwork Square Bead, Green with Tan Stripe, 14mm (2)
Designer Lampwork Disc Focal Bead, White with Brown/Green Swirls, 16mm (2)
Swarovski Crystal, 8mm Xilion Bicone, Smoked Topaz (5)
Swarovski Crystal, 4mm Bicone, Bag of 10, Crystal Vitrail Medium (2)
Nipper Tool (1)
2 1/2 Inch Sterling Silver Head Pin with 4mm Bottom Beading (5)
2 3/4 Inch Bali Sterling Silver Head Pin with 6mm Bottom Bead Cap (pictured)
2 Inch Silver Head Pin with Heart Accent (pictured)
  or Silver Plated 3 Inch Headpins, 21 Gauge, Bag of 10
G-S Hypo Cement (1)
Silver Plate Jump Rings, Open, Bag of 10, 8mm, 18 Gauge (1)

Kelly McCoy, Auntie’s Beads Designer

The Lantern beads are one of my favorite styles, and I love combining silver and black.  I like to make earrings that can be worn for any occasion.  I think these earrings would look great with just about anything…think jeans and a black turtleneck, or a cocktail dress at a holiday party.  The lantern beads provide a sleek, sophisticated look, while the dangles add movement and a touch of whimsy, creating an elegant balance.

- Created by Lisa Hughes Iversen of Angel Whispers Jewelry

1.  Using a 2mm ball head pin, place on a 4mm black bicone, 4mm Bali spacer, and 2mm sterling silver round bead.
2. Bend the head pin over the top of the silver bead, using a flush cutter trim to 1/4″ and make a simple loop using a round nose pliers – repeat 5 times – for a total of 6 dangles.
3. Take an eye pin, open the loop with a chain nose pliers, slip on 3 of the dangles, close the loop, and repeat with the second eye pin.
4. Take one of the eye pins, place a starburst spacer, lantern bead, a starburst spacer, a 4mm black bicone, a 4mm flat Bali spacer, and a 2mm sterling silver round bead.
5. Hold the eye pin above the 2mm bead, using a flat nose pliers, bend the wire to a 90 degree angle – in the same direction as the bottom loop, trim to 1/4 ” and make a simple loop.
6. Repeat steps 5 & 6 with the second eye pin.
7. Slip completed earrings onto French Hook ear wires or your own handmade ear wires.

 
Materials and Tools Needed:
 
Sterling Silver Lantern Bead – 12mm – 2 pieces
Sterling Silver eye pins – 2 pieces
Sterling Silver ball head pins – 6 pieces
Swarovski Crystal bicone beads – jet black -  8 pieces
Spacers – 4mm Flat Bali – 8 pieces
Spacers – Starburst Bali spacers – 4 pieces
Sterling Silver round bead – 2mm – 8 pieces
Sterling Silver Earwire with 2 mm Ball, 21 Gauge, Pair
  or  Handmade Ear wires (SEE POST BELOW)
Round Nose Pliers
Chain Nose Pliers
Flush cutter

- Created by Lisa Hughes Iversen of Angel Whispers Jewelry

As a jewelry designer, you always strive to create unique, wearable pieces of art. In the past year or two, there have been a lot of products on the market that let you truly create original, personal pieces for yourself and others. We call these products our Glue In and Glaze line. If you are looking for something new and fun to add to your design repertoire or just want to understand the product a little better, then you have come to the right spot!

We started our collection with pewter charms. I especially love the oval and round charms because their shape is just so versatile but we also carry them in squares, rectangles, and links. The best part about the pewter frames is the template so you don’t have to keep cutting your image down. Simply place your image under the template, trace, and cut.

After you have gotten your image down to a certain size, you will want to adhere it to the inside of the charm using Gem Tac and then give it a few hours to dry. If you are using shallow charms or pendants, you will want to use the Diamond Glaze which applies a thin, glossy clear coat on top of your images. In order to fill up the charm, you may have to use more than one coat; if so, let each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next. (I usually give mine at least 48 hours drying time.) A tip: always keep a paintbrush or toothpick—or some object with a small, fine point—handy so you can work out any bubbles that may try to arise within your work.

In addition to the pewter charms, we carry pendants that are perfect for customizing as well. Some are deeper than others, though so you have to be change gears a bit when working with these. Instead of using Diamond Glaze, you will want to use DG3 Gel. Both are clear drying products but Diamond Glaze tends to get a little cloudy when too many layers are applied. DG3 Gel will allow you to put multiple coats on without compromising the color or finish of your photo. Like the Diamond Glaze, DG3 Gel requires adequate time to dry between coats. Again, I would wait at least 48 hours between each coat. To take it even a step further, I usually wait a week before I will sell one of my finished pieces using the gel. Because it is water based, it requires a lot of time to fully cure. I have found that putting my pieces under a lamp helps expedite the drying process but I am still very cautious about handling my pieces until I know each layer is completely dry.

Let’s say you’ve got the whole process figured out but you make a mistake and accidentally stick your finger in the gel while it is drying. (Yes, this is written from a little bit of personal experience.) The best part about working with these gels is that, because they are water based, no mistake is permanent and clean-up is easy. All you have to do is soak your piece in water and you will be able to salvage your pendant or charm.

I honestly didn’t think this gluing and glazing thing would be something I would be into but it really is so much fun. From photographs to collage sheets, I have been able to create truly unique, personalized, wearable works of art with just a hint of glue, a smidge of glaze, and a dash of patience!

Shanna Steele, Auntie’s Beads Designer

Those of us who are beadaholics know that part of the addiction to making jewelry comes from the fact that you never stop learning. Whether you are exploring a new technique, tool, medium, or material, it seems as though there is always something to discover. I have noticed in my years of designing that beading has taught me a lot about myself and a lot of valuable lessons that can be applied not just to my bead board but to life in general.

 A few things I have learned along the way:

1. Frustration only breeds more frustration. Have you ever noticed that the more frustrated you get, the more negative you get, and the more this whole cycle of frustration and negativity hampers your creativity? The things we tell ourselves when we feel like we can’t do something are the very things that block us from being able to do that something. The solution: walk away from the bead board and return when you feel refreshed, relaxed, and more positive about yourself and your work.

 2. Patience really is a virtue. Most people assume that designers—or creative types of any kind—are always “on” and just have those creative juices flowing all the time. This just simply isn’t true. I can’t tell you how many times I have had an idea in my head only to find that the piece isn’t working out quite the way I envisioned it or only to find that the pattern I am working on just isn’t going to measure out the way it should. All the creativity in the world won’t help solve the problem; patience is the only real solution. My favorite, most original pieces have come from a perfect fusion of creativity and patience.

3. Work from your strengths, not from your weaknesses. A few months ago, we went through a strengths training workshop to discover what really moved, motivated, and inspired us. This changed the way I thought about beading—and life. Admittedly, I am not a person who likes repetition so I don’t like creating the same finished piece over and over again nor do I like making long necklaces (especially if they are straight strung or wire wrapped). Knowing what I don’t enjoy frees me to concentrate on the things I do love so I can grow and further my knowledge in those areas. I learned that it is okay not to be a jack-of-all-trades and it is perfectly fine to spend more time doing what you love.

One of the biggest perks of my job (besides being amongst beautiful beads all day long!) is hearing from people whose lives have been touched by the amazing rewards beading can bring. What life lessons have you learned from your experience as a beader? When you walk away from your bead board, what emotions do you have when you have finished a piece that has that “wow” factor? Share your experiences with me—and your fellow beaders—by commenting below!

Shanna Steele, Auntie’s Beads Designer

I wanted to share with you these 5 unique and beautiful projects posted by Auntie’s Beads designers.  It was difficult to narrow it down to just  five, but here they are.  Feel free to comment, giving us your own list of favorite Auntie’s Beads projects or you can comment on one of these that I have chosen. 

1. In My Bead Room Necklace

by Susie Henderson, www.AuntiesBeads.com Owner

I love the name of this piece.  What can you do with all the extra beads sitting around in your bead room?  Glue them into a pendant!  I love how you can use art gel to let your imagination run wild and create one-of-a-kind pendants.  All the different colors in the seed bead broom mix work perfectly with the large turquoise nuggets resulting in a necklace you can wear with just about anything. The natural, chunky shape of the turquoise and the overflow of seed beads in the pendant give this piece so much interesting depth and texture. Good job Susie Q!

2. Falling For Copper Necklace

by Shanna Steele, www.AuntiesBeads.com Designer

To me this piece just looks impressive, with all the intricate wire wrapping involved.  I think copper and olivine give this necklace a very earth tone. The Swarovski Crystal, 4mm Bicone, Bag of 48, Autumn Mix  would be beautiful on this necklace as well.  The crystals look very natural flowing over the copper leafand the addition of small sections of crystal between the copper chains surprises the eye in a very good way.  Keep it up Shanna! 

3. A Whole Lot of Shakin’ Going On Necklace

by Karla Schafer, www.AuntiesBeads.com Designer

This necklace intrigues me because it’s just something I never would have thought of.  The dangling chain creates a beautiful, almost chaotic look that keeps your attention. The best part about this design is you can change up the beads and the chain that you use and create many gorgeous pieces from this one pattern.  Karla’s one talented lady!

4. Kokomo Neckace

by Kelly McCoy, www.AuntiesBeads.com Designer

I feel like I’m on vacation when I look at this necklace.  I love the beach and the whites, beiges and browns in this piece feel like they were made to be by the sand.  I like how long this necklace is and I think using two 2-strand separators adds some character and keeps the piece from being boring.  To me there’s nothing like hanging a little charm from the back of your necklace to give it a polished look!

5. Cowgirl Up Necklace

by Karla Schafer, www.AuntiesBeads.com Designer

Admittedly, I’m no cowgirl. But this necklace is just too cool!  All of the different colors and shapes and metals and crystals.. there is something to be said for hodge-podge beading.  This is the perfect piece to spice up a solid colored tee.  The best part is, it’s just straight beading, so anyone can make it!

Kelly McCoy
Auntie’s Beads Designer

We had a great response from everyone with the Bracelet Giveaway.  Thanks to all those who participated.  We have a few people out there who were wanting instructions for the Just Rosy bracelet so here they are.  Enjoy!

Step 1. Use your nipper tool to cut 2, 24” pieces of beading wire.

Step 2. String a crimp bead onto one piece of wire, loop it around one of the loops on your 2 strand clasp, and then thread it (going in the opposite direction) back through your crimp bead. Crimp your crimp bead and leave just enough extra wire to string through your first onyx or sterling silver bead.

Step 3. Repeat this process with one end of your other piece of beading wire.

Step 4. On the right piece of beading wire, string 2 sterling silver beads. On the left piece, string 3 onyx  beads.

Step 5. Take your right piece of beading wire (the one with 2 sterling silver beads) and string it through the third onyx bead on your left piece of wire. String your right wire in the bead where your left wire comes out of the bead (they will be going in opposite directions). Pull tightly.

Step 6.  The side on which you string your onyx beads will switch each time.  First you put 3 onyx beads on left, 2 sterling silver beads on the right, string the right through the left and pull as in Step 5.   Next you will put 3 onyx beads on the right, 2 sterling silver beads on the left, string the left through the right and pull.  Then you go back to how you did it in Step 5.  Continue alternating until your bracelet reaches about half your desired length.

Step 7.  Now it’s time to attach the rose centerpiece bead.  To do this, string 1 onyx bead on each strand of wire. Then string your right piece of wire horizontally through the hole in your rose bead from right to left.  String your left piece horizontally left to right.  Pull gently. 

Step 8. String 1 onyx bead on each piece of wire.  Then string both pieces of wire through a third onyx bead, the right piece from right to left and the left piece from left to right.  Pull gently, and begin weaving again as you did in step 4. 

Step 9.  When you’re finished weaving, attach each end of your wire to your 2 strand clasp as you did in step 2. Make sure it lies correctly (isn’t twisted) before you crimp.

Materials and Tools Needed:

(These links will take you directly to the product page where they can be ordered)

Onyx Round Strand, 3 mm
Sterling Silver Seamless Beads, 3mm, Bag of 25 (2 bags)
Silver Plated 2-Strand Slide Lock Clasp, 16 x 6mm
Pewter Rose Bead, Silver, 7mm
Crimp Beads, Bag of 50, 2 x 2 mm
Beadalon 49-strand Wire, 100 ft., .015

We would like to send a special invitation to all of those in our beading community who would like to share their beautiful jewelry designs created using AuntiesBeads.com products. 

Auntie’s Beads frequently publishes projects put together by our designers which include photos, supply lists and step-by-step instructions to make unique finished pieces.  We would like to invite all of you to do the same here on Auntie’s Blog.  The best part is, we will include a promotional link to your site from the blog post.

How to Participate…

Send an email to shanna@auntiesbeads.com with the following:

• Name of piece -  The name can be anything- someone your piece reminds you of (i.e. “Anna’s Earrings” or “Bracelet for Shelly”), a feeling your piece gives you (i.e. “Warm and Fuzzy Necklace” or “Earrings with a Wink”), pay tribute to a color that inspired you to make the piece (i.e. “Tantalizing Turquoise Earrings” or “Beautiful Blue Bracelet”), etc.  Sometimes it’s fun to make your name rhyme or use alliteration.  Just think of something you find catchy!
• Instructions –  Type detailed, step-by-step instructions to complete your piece. Be sure to include a list of all of the materials you used, including the number of each bead or jewelry component. Please be as detailed as possible; include what tools you used, lengths of beading wire, how to avoid possible problems while putting your piece together, etc.  For questions or help completing your instructions, email shanna@auntiesbeads.com.  You can also find how we like things set up by browsing our Beading Projects.
• Photograph -  The photograph does not have to be the best quality since we will be taking our own picture of the piece once it gets shipped to us.  We will just need something to go by when reviewing the instructions and name of the piece.

Once we have received your information, we will notify you with shipping details.  Please keep in mind that we reserve the right to accept only what we deem as a quality project.  However, we are more than willing to work with you and help you modify the instructions to meet a certain standard.  That’s what we’re here for. 

Important

• Auntie’s Beads is not responsible for the shipping cost, however, will pay to have it shipped back to the sender. 
• Only projects exclusively using products from www.AuntiesBeads.com will be accepted.
• It is very possible that Auntie’s Beads will make some changes in the name and/or instructions of the piece, as well as add substitute materials to be used for project.  Contributors will be informed via email if such changes are to be made prior to publishing.
• We will only include a link to your personal jewelry design site or blog.  No third-party storefront sites, such as Etsy, Artfire, etc.  It’s got to be your site!

Again, pleased send questions to shanna@auntiesbeads.com and we’ll get back to you as soon as possible. 

We are VERY excited to see what our Auntie’s Beaders come up with…
Thanks for reading and participating!

In the past month or so, I’ve fallen head-over-heels in love with beading, and I don’t see that love fading anytime soon.  But like any passionate relationship, there have been times when my beads and I haven’t gotten along so well.  I find myself occasionally throwing a nipper tool across the room or yelling curse words at innocent little seed beads.  Still, slowly but surely, I have learned tidbit after tidbit that has made my bead blunders fewer and farer between.  I thought I would list a few beginner beading tips here and maybe save some poor ring mandrel out there from bead-abuse. 

1.   Always over-estimate the amount of beading wire or chain you’re going to need.  I’ve had to pull off my beads and start over with a longer piece a few too many times.

2.   Crimp covers can be your best friend.  They are easy to use (just use your pliers to squeeze them over your crimp bead) and hide the ugly part.

3.   When you’re working with wire, run it through your hands a few times first.  This is supposed to warm the wire and make it more flexible.  I don’t know about that, but it’s important to show it who’s boss.

4.   On that note, wire wrapping is difficult.  Be patient with yourself and remember that it will take practice.  Be ready to end up throwing away a little bit of weird looking, kinked wire.  You might want to use the cheaper stuff when you’re first learning.

5.   After you crimp your wire at the end of a necklace or bracelet, string it back through the first several beads.  This makes your piece stronger and helps hide where you trimmed off excess wire.

6.   Ever wondered how you tie off a piece of elastic so it won’t come apart?  Well I did.  Turns out you just tie a regular knot, but you put a few drops of strong glue (like hypo cement) on top to secure it. 

7.    Be an organized beader.  It will relieve your stress.  You can get little plastic bead organizers all over the place (I got a few from Wal-Mart for around 4 dollars).  Put your gold jump/split rings in one compartment, your silver in another, separate your crimp beads and your crimp covers by color.  Put your Swarovski Crystal in one compartment and your Czech glass in another… you get the picture.
Good luck and happy beading.

Kelly McCoy, Auntie’s Beads Designer

In my last blog, I talked about the roots of what can only be described as a lifelong beading adventure.  Having been a beader off and on for about 15 years now (and having more money at some times than others to invest in my hobby), I have learned a few things about the do’s and don’ts of jewelry making.  The following are a few tips and rules for those of you just starting out on your beading journey. 

1. Always use high quality crimp beads.  Whether you are using silver or gold, try to avoid anything plated or anything that is not tube-like in its appearance.  The plated crimp beads are okay for making simple illusion necklaces, but are not sturdy enough to withstand the wear and tear of your beaded jewelry.

2. Do not sacrifice quality for price when it comes to beading wire.  Although 49-strand wire may seem expensive, in the long run it will save you time, money, and frustration from having to recreate pieces that have fallen apart due to the use of less durable wire.  And although Supplemax is a great product for creating illusion necklaces and woven pieces, it is not sturdy enough to hold strands of beads.  Neither is Fireline. (I speak from my experience and the experience of others on this one!)

3.  Use the most project appropriate findings and clasps possible in your pieces.  It is embarrassing to admit but when I began making jewelry again, I used beading wire and crimped the bottom so it would act as headpin.  Though this may seem creative, it was actually not very attractive or very sturdy.  And clasps… Don’t even get me started!  I used to buy my clasps in bulk and I used the same clasp on every piece of jewelry I made, whether it was delicate or bold and chunky.  Now I cringe when I see those old pieces with those plain silver plate toggles.  Also, when choosing a clasp, you will want to keep in mind what the finished piece will be.  I generally use a lobster and chain at the back of necklaces (so the length is adjustable) and use toggles on bracelets (because they are sturdy, attractive, and easier to take on and off than a lobster clasp).

4. I would never say that you shouldn’t use inexpensive beads; plastic, glass, and base metal beads can make some great fashion jewelry pieces.  What I would say is that you should never mix your less expensive beads with your more expensive beads.  For example, I probably wouldn’t use Czech glass to create a necklace around a $30 sterling silver pendant.  I also probably wouldn’t mix plastic beads with Swarovski crystal.  The main reason for this is that you will ultimately devalue your finished piece.  Remember: a person’s perceived value of a product is just as important as the actual value. 

5. The best advice I can give is to learn, learn, and learn some more!  I am a person who does not like to be taught by others.  I don’t read instructions and I don’t learn from a classroom environment; I am more about being self-taught and experimentation.  Some people, like Karla, find they do better when they have a trusty friend or magazine to help them learn a new technique or skill.  However you learn best, learn as much as you can!  Take classes, subscribe to beading magazines, look at free online jewelry projects, watch online videos.  All of these things will teach you not only new techniques, but what kinds of tools and materials and resources you can use while you learn your new craft.  And I believe one of the best things about this hobby is that you never stop learning!

You will get out of this hobby what you put into it and, whether you are selling your pieces or giving them as gifts or keeping them in your own jewelry gift, you want to make sure you are creating nothing but the best.  Happy beading!

Shanna Steele,
Auntie’s Beads Designer

When I first started beading, I am afraid to admit, I didn’t invest in any kind of beading tools.  I just used common household tools to get the job done.  Now that I have been beading for a while, I know how important my specialized tools are.  I thought I would pass along what I have learned about what to use and when for those of you who are still digging around in the garage looking for that specific cutting device or pair of pliers. 

1.   Nipper Tool -  This is probably the most important tool you will ever own.  It is a cutting tool that has an angled blade which enables you to get in between beads for a tight, close cut.  This tool works best on beading wire and wire that is 20 gauge or softer.

2.   Memory Wire Shears -  Even if you don’t ever want to work with memory wire, this is a must have item.  While your Nipper tool is great for softer wires, its edges can quickly become dulled when used on heavier gauges of wire as well as plated chain; memory wire shears are the perfect solution to the dulling blade problem.

3.   Round Nose Pliers -  If you ever intend to work with wire at all—whether it be making simple drop beaded earrings or creating stunning wire wrapped work around a pendant – round  nose pliers are a necessity. 

I personally prefer the Beadsmith “La Femme” Ergo Pliers, Round Nose Pliers because the handles are curved and have a great grip.  This helps reduce fatigue and makes wire wrapping much more comfortable.

4.   Chain Nose Pliers -These are great for a variety of things: opening jump rings, closing crimp covers, straightening wire loops, making right angle bends in wire, flat crimping, and so on.  The best tip I can give about chain nose pliers, though, is this: You will probably actually want to keep two pair handy for opening and closing jump rings; if you try to use a pair of chain nose pliers and a pair of round nose pliers to do the job, your wire will probably get a little dented. 

Again, I prefer the Beadsmith Ergo Pliers, Chain Nose With Cutter for the level of comfort the handles provide. 

5.   Tweezers -  I know this may sound like a strange one, but you will be surprised how much you will use and need tweezers in your beadwork.  They are a great and inexpensive alternative to Split Ring Pliers.  In addition, tweezers can be used when you are weaving if you get tangled or need to undo your work.  Bent nose tweezers are particularly great for flat back designs as well as getting into tight spaces when needed.

You will discover what brand of tool you like best as your skill level improves (and through a little buying trial and error), but having your top five tools always handy will make accomplishing your projects much easier—not to mention making your beadwork even more beautiful!   

Shanna Steele, Auntie’s Beads Designer

Whether or not we like to admit it, it happens to all of us from time to time and when it comes around, we try to pretend it doesn’t exist but there is no avoiding it. I call it beader’s block and it feels like it literally drains every creative juice I have. Because I make a living being creative, people often assume that I am always “on” and full of great ideas and fabulous new designs. The truth is that often times, it seems that because I do make a living being creative, I experience beader’s block more than I ever did when making jewelry was just a hobby and a therapeutic creative outlet for me. So what do I do to work beyond the frustration? 

The first thing I do—and I know this is going to sound like the most confusing, contradictory statement ever—is walk away from what is frustrating me. I have learned (starting a few years ago with the eight hour session I spent trying to learn the puffy heart) that getting frustrated gets me nowhere. I start sending myself all sorts of negative messages which becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy; that is, the more I tell myself I can’t do something, the more I find myself not being able to do that thing. When I feel my frustration growing and the negativity setting in, I simply walk away from whatever project I am working on and wait until I feel my patience, passion, and creativity return before beginning work on that project again. 

Now, I am not advocating that you quit beading entirely. What I would advocate instead is working on something with which you are familiar. For example, I make all of the puffy heart pendants available at Auntie’s Beads. One day, while trying to do something new with the right angle weave technique and Supplemax, I kept getting stumped. I started working on puffy hearts that needed replenishing and I began to see a pattern emerge. I got out colored pencils and graph paper and sketched what I was seeing. I quickly put down the puffy heart I was working on and got to work trying to create my vision. The result was one of my favorite pieces to date: my Into The Garden Bracelet . Other great works have emerged as a result of this process so trust me: go with what you know, do something repetitive, and you will begin to see each material you are using in a new way. 

Another thing I have learned is that inspiration is EVERYWHERE. When I feel stumped or stuck on a particular thing, I look outside my bead board to find the answer. Nature, for example, has always been a great inspiration to me. Many of my favorite pieces, including my Cornucopia of Leaves Bracelet, Earthly Elegance Necklace and Down By The Sea Necklace (just to name a few) were largely inspired by colors and themes outside my window. In fact, many of the Swarovski crystal mixes I helped create for Auntie’s Beads were inspired by my perception of the natural world.  

I also find tremendous inspiration in magazines. By this, I don’t necessarily mean beading magazines. While beading magazines are great for learning a new technique, I have found that my best sources of inspiration are often books or advertisements within fashion magazines and even the Sunday paper. Not only do I see great pieces of jewelry, but I also see great color combinations that I never would have created on my own. Art books can also help in this regard (for those of you who often find yourselves in more of a color rut than a design rut.) I mentioned earlier that the natural world inspired many of our crystal mixes, but several of my color palettes and/or designs have largely been influenced by—but never directly copied from—books, magazines, and advertisements. My Cool Jewel Earrings, for example, were inspired by 2 different sources; the color scheme was inspired by a make-up ad and the style of the earrings was inspired by something I saw in a sales advertisement in the Sunday paper. 

Another great source of inspiration for me has always been my closet. I can’t count how many times I have put on an outfit only to discover I don’t have the right pair of earrings to match or the perfect necklace for my neckline. I have discovered that it is best, when creating a piece, to make sure I make a full set—or at least matching pieces so I am never caught without a piece of jewelry. I have also found that when I buy something new and it is a different color scheme or print for me, it often offers endless new design possibilities. So… If the magazines and books and advertisements and outdoors aren’t working for you, try opening up your closet and seeing what inspiration lies within.

The best thing I can say about beating beader’s block is this: work through it however you need to and at your own pace. Don’t get yourself too frustrated and don’t give up! You WILL get through it. My father, who was a graphic designer, once told me that the profession of design essentially boils down to problem solving. You, as a beader, have materials and colors and patterns you need to fit within a certain space. Sometimes it all works well and sometimes something seemingly simple will have you wanting to throw beads across the room. When that happens, try to remember the following: avoid the source of your frustration; work on something familiar; try to see the world (and images) around you with a designer’s eye; and wait for that perfect balance of patience, creativity, and logic to help you produce your next masterpiece!

Shanna Steele, Auntie’s Beads Designer

“I have a pattern that calls for Supplemax.  Can I substitute the Supplemax with Fireline?”, or “I am just learning to weave and I don’t understand the difference between Fireline and Supplemax?  Are the 2 products interchangeable?”  These are questions I receive via email pretty frequently.  I don’t blame people for being confused.  The decision about whether to use a beading thread or a monofilament can be difficult and depends on so many things.  How flexible do you want your piece to be?  How long is the piece going to be?  What stitch are you using?  Do you want your piece domed or “puffed” or do you want it to be a little softer?

When deciding what to use, the first rule is this: always do what your pattern or instructions dictate.  Because Supplemax and Fireline are so different, your piece will turn out completely different (or may not work at all) if you make a material substitution.  They are so different, in fact that substituting one for the other would be like substituting a .015 beading wire for a 22 gauge craft wire.  You wouldn’t want to do that, would you?

But let’s say that you don’t want to copy someone else’s pattern and want to start experimenting on your own.  The following are a few guidelines that can help you figure out when to use what.

The first thing to know is the fundamental difference between the materials.  Supplemax is a monofilament, which is a single strand of untwisted synthetic fiber (think fishing line); Fireline is a braided beading thread.  Supplemax has a test strength of 12 pounds, while Fireline’s test strength is usually about 6 pounds.  This means that Supplemax is sturdier and stronger than Fireline.  That sounds good but it also means that Supplemax will not give your woven pieces the flexibility that Fireline will. 

Supplemax is my favorite when I want to create three-dimensional rings or woven pendants.  Using a monofilament is great for these pieces because you can create a domed or puffed piece such as the Swarovski Puffy Heart or Starburst pendant without having to pass through your beads multiple times; the ends of Supplemax are sturdy and stiff enough that they find their way through the beads easily and stiffly hold the beads in position.  You usually use a no needle right angle weave technique when working with monofilament which means woven pieces seem to work up a little faster and easier.  In addition, you work with the exact amount of material needed to complete a piece—usually 3 to 5 feet—so you don’t have to tie in when you need more thread.  In addition, when you use a right angle weave with Supplemax, you don’t need a needle at all!  (That was a big selling point for me when I first started weaving; the needle and thread thing sounded completely intimidating to someone who doesn’t even know how to sew!) 

Fireline is good for just about everything else woven.  It works well on pieces where you will inevitably use 12 feet of stringing material, such as a peyote bracelet for several reasons.  First of all, you can start with a comfortable length of thread and tie in more when you need it.  This reduces knots and tangles you would get if you had too much thread to begin with; it also enables you to add a little more length to a bracelet or necklace.  In my opinion, that is where Fireline has a huge benefit over Supplemax.  When you need to add more length or repair a Supplemax piece, you have to reweave the whole thing.  You can not simply tie back in, weave a little magic, and then call it done.  As a general rule, because woven pieces often call for the use of small beads and most stitches require you to pass through these same tiny beads multiple times, you will want to use Fireline when you do any one of the following stitches: peyote, ladder, flat spiral, embellished right angle weave and any kind of tubular stitch such as the peyote tube.  Using Fireline in these stitches also helps keep them supple.  Like I said earlier, Fireline allows for a lot more flexibility, not only in your finished piece but also in your ability to work and rework a piece.

I know weaving can be so intimidating to people.  When you see a finished piece, it often looks so complicated that it can seem discouraging.  Just remember to take it slow and learn the basic stitch before you try to create a complicated masterpiece.  Here at Auntie’s Beads, we have online videos to help you get started and show you how to not only do basic stitches, but also how to complete a project learning the new techniques you learn.  Magazines can also be a great resource.  If you are new to weaving, I recommend Step By Step Beads; it has great illustrations and instructions, and even a glossary or terms and techniques at the back of each issue.  Most of all, though, have fun while you weave—no matter what material you choose to use! 

Shanna Steele, Auntie’s Beads Designer

Memory Wire is a wonderful thing. It makes awesome coiled bracelets that appear to be single strands stacked on your wrist in a cuff like style. It makes a necklace that never loses its shape or form and stays exactly where you want it to. Like anything wonderful, though, it can be a little tricky and have its share of headaches.

One thing that always confuses people about working with Memory Wire is its size. It comes in Medium and Large. As a general rule, you will want to get the Large Wire size when making bracelets. I have a 6.25 inch wrist and the Medium Memory Wire is tight, especially when I am working with larger beads. That being said, Medium Memory Wire can be great for making cuff style Memory Wire bracelets or bracelets for children.

As for necklaces… There are two things you will want to consider when choosing Memory Wire for a necklace. One is how large your beads are. The second is how large—or small—the wearer’s neck is. I have a small neck; I make most of my necklaces about 14 inches. Therefore, I almost always use the Medium Necklace Memory Wire. The other time you would want to use a Medium sized necklace is when you are using heavier beads. Because the Medium has a tighter coil, it tends to hold its shape when weighted down with things like gemstones. Large Memory Wire is great for people who typically wear a 16-18 inch necklace. It is also ideal for stringing lighter weight beads, such as seed beads and crystals.

Whatever size Memory Wire you choose and use, you will want to remember the following general guidelines about working with Memory Wire:
        

1. ALWAYS use Memory Wire Shears to cut your Memory Wire. If you use a Nipper tool, you will dull your blade and possibly break your tool.
2. You can invest in Memory Wire End Caps to end your Memory Wire pieces. This is how I ended Memory Wire when I first started using it. You will want to invest in some Super Glue or other very strong and fast drying glue to make sure the ends are secure.
3. If you are not a fan of the end caps, I would suggest using the Wire Looping Pliers to make a simple loop at each end of your Memory Wire. I like this better than the end caps because you don’t have to wait on your glue to dry AND you can dangle things off the ends of the necklace or bracelet (See Summer Fun Bracelet)

I have discovered these things through years of working with Memory Wire and doing everything wrong—breaking a Nipper tool, getting Super Glue all over myself and my creation. I hope the information here will inspire you to love Memory Wire as much as I do and hopefully save you a headache along the way!

Shanna Steele, Auntie’s Beads Designer

I talked to a customer on the phone recently who was having some serious wire woes. She was trying to wire wrap a pendant but just couldn’t get it right. It turns out that the wire she was using was all wrong. This is a very common problem, actually—especially for beginning beaders. Even people who are more experienced find that a wire used for one project may not be the best wire for a different project. With so many options, how do you choose? Luckily, there are a few guidelines you can follow when selecting your wire.

Colourcraft/Artistic Wire – If you are completely new to working with wire, I would suggest using Colourcraft  or Artistic Wire. Both are colored copper wires, so they are much more affordable than working with Sterling Silver Wire. I personally prefer Artistic Wire when I want to use silver wire because the silver coloring is brighter and more permanent than Colourcraft’s version. Colourcraft does come in all kinds of fun colors—from red to green to black—and is great for making fun rings.

Which Gauge? - The lower the number, the harder the wire; therefore, 16 gauge is a lot harder than 24 gauge. If you are new to wire wrapping and making loops, I would suggest starting with a 22 or 24 gauge because you will learn technique without killing your hands. You may also find that beads with small holes, such as pearls, will only fit on a 22 or 24 gauge wire. I almost exclusively use a 21 or 22 gauge wire to make drops for bracelets or earrings unless I am working with pearls. I have found that 20 gauge is best for making rings because it is flexible enough to wrap around a ring mandrel but sturdy enough to maintain its shape when worn. I would also say that 20 gauge is great for simple wire wrapped pendant; if you want to do lots of intricate work with your wire, you might want to use a 22 gauge instead. The heavier gauges, such as 16 and 18, are generally used for making your own jump rings and clasps, chokers, bangle or cuff bracelets and other heavy items. Since gauge sizes are uniform, the above information holds true whether you are working with Artistic or Colourcraft wire or sterling silver. Sterling Silver Wire will have two differences though.

Dead Soft/Half Hard – Click to find information on Dead Soft vs. Half Hard for Sterling Silver Wire

As with almost everything in the bead world, practice makes perfect and you will find that you have your own preferences. Don’t be afraid to learn something new—like making a simple wire wrapped bracelet or a basic ring. The more you learn about wire and how to work with it, the easier it will get and the more it will enhance your unique jewelry designs.

Shanna Steele, Auntie’s Beads Designer

Many people have questions about which beading wire to use for what project.  “Should I use the 19 strand, .015” or the 49 strand, .018”?  How do you know which wire jewelry supplies work best?  Well, after many years of playing around with beading wire—and many mistakes along the way—I may have learned a thing or two.

7 Strand Wire is composed of 7 tiny strands of wire coated in nylon.  When I first started beading, I exclusively used 7 strand wire for two reasons.  First of all, it is very economically priced. Secondly, it comes in fun colors so it is great for illusion necklaces or any other jewelry creations where your wire will be exposed.  It is stronger than Tiger Tail (which is what you may find at local craft and hobby stores) and it is pretty flexible.  This wire is perfect for beginners or for simple beaded projects that are relatively lightweight. 

19 Strand Wire is made of 19 tiny strands of wire coated in nylon.  The thing I love about 19 strand wire is that, while it is stronger than 7 strand wire, it also tends to be more flexible.  I use 19 strand wire for every beading project that involves seed beads, as well as for any beaded jewelry designs that require weaving or passing through the same bead more than once.  This wire is the perfect combination of flexibility and strength—and the price is reasonable, too!

49 Strand Wire is made of 49 tiny strands of wire coated in nylon.  This is the wire the pros use.  The most expensive of the Beadalon wires, it is also the most flexible and durable.  It lays wonderfully and never kinks.  It is strong enough to hold gemstones and will not be frayed by crystals or glass.  This wire is great for just about any beading project you can imagine!

Diameter is a relatively simple concept once you understand the difference between 7 Strand, 19 Strand, and 49 Strand wire.  The diameter number actually refers to the millimeter measurement of the wire.  For example, a .012” wire is .30mm while a .015” wire is .38mm.  Most designers will probably use a .018” wire for stringing the majority of the time.  This diameter—whether you are using a 7, 19, or 49 Strand wire—will work with just about any bead.  An exception to this rule would be stringing pearls; generally speaking, a 19 Strand wire in a .015” is best when working with pearls because the hole is so small.  Another exception to the .018” rule is stringing very large beads or beads with larger holes.  49 Strand wire comes in a .036”, which is perfect for those larger, chunkier, heavier beads.

Click to view project examples using different types of wire…  
19 Strand wire with a .012” diameter
19 Strand wire with a .015” diameter
49 Strand wire with a .015” diameter
49 Strand wire with a .018” diameter

Shanna Steele
Designer, Auntie’s Beads